Caponata
September 2019
A couple of years ago I was treated to a simple supper so tasty, I bought the recipe book the next day. It was spinach and preserved lemon freekeh, expertly prepared by my friend’s boyfriend, Oran. It was the first time I’d come across freekeh; a grain traditionally found in Middle Eastern cuisine, its better known cousins being couscous and bulgar wheat. The freekeh had been flavoured with spinach and preserved lemon purée, then topped with a poached egg and cracked black pepper. Its deliciousness was undoubtedly due to its execution, owing to Oran’s expertise as a full-time chef. Nevertheless, I was excited by this newfound grain and the ease with which these ingredients could be thrown together to create something quite impressive. As we sat down to eat, I noticed a photograph of the freekeh in the open cookbook and asked Oran whose recipe it was. Enthusiastically, I was handed Ed Smith’s debut On the Side, and quickly understood why Grace and Oran were so eager to show me. It is one of the best cookbooks I’ve come across, for not only is it filled with mouth-watering recipes, Smith has revolutionised the humble side adding inspiration and occasion to any meal. Vegetables are no longer an afterthought, rather, the main event. In addition to sides being given the spotlight, Smith has carefully constructed an accessible index, detailing the options to accompany whatever main you have decided upon. It is thoughtful, inventive and has enabled sides to take centre stage.
This caponata is really good – packed full of punchy yet complementary flavours and perfect all year round. The anchovies and capers add just the right amount of salty flair to the veggies and the vinegar’s sweet and sour tang. The dish is pretty effortless, as it can go straight in the oven, allowing you to prepare the rest of the meal, plus the longer it cooks the more time the juices have to develop their flavour. Add aubergines, red onions, peppers, garlic, red wine vinegar, anchovies, capers, dried herbs, tomatoes and basil to your next shopping list, find the full recipe here and I can assure you, you will not be disappointed.
Find Ed @rocketandsquash